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Community Corner

Sampan Inn: Feel Like You're In Two Places At Once

This week food writer Clara Park reviews Sampan Inn in Havertown.

To my knowledge there are only a few beings that can be in two places at once. Subatomic particles known as electrons, certain saints and the occasional superhero have been known to be in different locations simultaneously.

While I used to often dream of flying, my super power of choice these days is the ability to be in two places at once. I went to for dinner the other day and was delighted that my wish had been fulfilled.

I walked into Sampan Inn and was overwhelmed by just how pink the dining room is. Everywhere you look it's pink and white. The lighting is slightly yellow. We were seated immediately and though initially alone, the room filled up within 15 minutes.

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The menu is quite extensive—there is a full Chinese menu, a full Japanese menu and full cocktail list (which was surprisingly affordable). Our server filled our water glasses and brought over delicious Jasmine tea and a bowl of fried wonton noodles and duck sauce. I warn you against eating too many of the noodles, no matter how addictive they are, they will ruin your appetite (we ended up taking home most of our entrees).

We began with the hot and sour soup and the deluxe sushi. The hot and sour soup was surprisingly good. The version here has no meat and married a blend of complex flavors and textures. Well prepared hot and sour soup is indeed spicy and slightly tangy.

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As a fan of hot and sour soup, I have tried it many times in many restaurants. Lesser versions of the soup have no "sour" element and taste like plastic (cheap fix is to add a splash of vinegar). The soup here had a subtle amount of heat that progressively got stronger. The sour/tangy flavor made its presence known towards the finish. The broth was rich and flavorful despite being vegetarian.

There were matchsticks of bamboo shoots, wood ear mushrooms, batons of soft tofu, ribbons of cooked egg, flecks of red chili flakes and then a splash of bright green scallions. This soup impressed the both of us.

The sushi deluxe with ten pieces of sushi and 1 spicy tuna roll was a great bargain at only $16.95. The tuna, salmon, flounder, red snapper and other fish were fairly fresh. It wasn't the freshest sushi I've ever had but it was enjoyable nevertheless. For such a great price you will not hear me complain.

The pink pickled ginger was decent.The spicy tuna roll was tasty and quite generous in terms of the amount of fish inside.For those that are unfamiliar, spicy tuna is simply chopped sushi grade tuna with mayonnaise and some sort of hot sauce. Typically the hot sauce is Sriracha (the brand with the rooster and green tip). Think of it like a spicy raw tuna salad.

For our entrees we had half a Peking duck and one of the specials that evening, honey miso glazed salmon with mixed vegetables. The salmon was prepared perfectly. The fish had clearly been seasoned with black pepper and cooked just until done. The fish was soft and tender but fully cooked. Both filets were moist and not dried out. Many people who hate salmon have only eaten the dry-as-the-dessert rubbery shoe leather that is overdone salmon.

In kitchens, the fish cook is one of the most senior because fish is expensive and unforgiving, there is no turning back once you overcook a piece of fish. It will forever be dry and chewy. If the fish is perfectly cooked, it must be served immediately or it will dry out. Steaks and other meats can experience much more abuse and still be delicious. The fish cook dictates the pace of the kitchen in any fine dining restaurant.

The honey miso glaze had a wonderful mouth feel and body. Slightly sweet and savory with a touch of earthiness, it was an ideal sauce for the fish (assuming you like how miso tastes).

The mixed vegetables were varied and colorful. Cooked well and sauced heavily they were good but paled in comparison to the salmon. My dining companion got a particular kick out of the daikon rose garnish, which is a true testament to someone's knife skills.  

The Peking duck was fair. The wheel spoke presentation of the traditional garnishes, julienned cucumbers and scallions, was visually stunning. The plum sauce was a bit thin but tasted alright.

The duck looked nice but wasn't as succulent or flavorful as I had hoped. The skin that should be crisp and shatter upon impact was soft and deflated looking. There were plenty of steamed pancakes which were all light and delicious. When I bit into my duck, scallion and cucumber filled pancake it was a perfectly respectable bite. 

The decor of the first dining area is rosy and feminine. I particularly liked the fresh and elegant Calla lillies I saw, but wondered why they were only on one table. The booths are comfortable and allow for private conversation. The tables in the center of the room are placed rather close together but not unbearably so. The room is warm and inviting.

However, on my way to the restroom I sauntered into the adjacent dining room (by accident) which feels completely different. The wood accented sushi bar and bright fluorescent lights are diametrically opposed to the look and feel of the first dining room. It has a distinctly more masculine and cool vibe to it.

The service is excellent. We were greeted and sat immediately, our server and the other staff members were unbelievably friendly, patient and attentive. Our water glasses were constantly refilled, dirty plates and silverware were cleared right away and we barely had to wait for anything.

When we were leaving the restaurant the staff all said thank you to us in Mandarin. This was a nice touch. When you dine at Sampan Inn you are literally eating in two restaurants at once, a Chinese and Japanese Restaurant.

The extensive menu makes it possible to enjoy both types of cuisines in whatever room you decide, simultaneously. Our first courses were Chinese(hot and sour soup) and Japanese (sushi) and our second courses featured a classic Chinese dish (Peking duck) with a Japanese inspired fish dish (miso is a staple in Japanese cooking).

The Jasmine tea, wonton noodles and fortune cooked at the end were distinctly Chinese but we could have enjoyed plum wine and sake had we chosen to.

I finally got my wish to be in two places at once and it was a delicious endeavor to boot. 

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